Questions about the composition of skin products: tranexamic acid, mandelic acid and glycolic acid

southcesar

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Feb 20, 2020
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I would like to ask for your opinion on some skin care products as I am not yet fully aware of the harmful ingredients from Ray Peat's point of view and I am trying to review a line of products that I am familiar with. Thanks in advance.

The first is a tranexamic acid cream:

> Aqua (Water), Niacinamide, Tranexamic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Glycereth-7 Triacetate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Bisabolol, Glycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Theobroma Grandiflorum (Cupuaçu) Seed Butter, Alpha-Arbutin, Phospholipids, Panthenol, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Phytic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ethylhexylglycerin, BHT, Tocopherol.


< niacinamide, cupuaçu (is a type of palm fruit, saturated fat) are peaty. Unfortunately there is sunflower oil though, what about the other ingredients? This Tranexamic Acid (Cyklokapron) is used to stop bleeding, could this have adverse effects on the skin?

The other product is an mandelic acid cream:

> Áqua, mandelic acid, alpha-arbutin, allantoin, hydroxyethylcellulose, ammonium hydroxide, sodium benzoate, propylene glycol, disodium edta.

< I couldn't find any information about mandelic acid on this forum, so I think it's important to ask about it. I found this site explaining a little about it:


“Mandelic acid is a natural brightener. It inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production to prevent pigment formation. It also helps to fade existing pigment by increasing cell turnover to disperse excess pigment from the skin’s surface.”

And the final product is a glycolic acid cream:

> aqua, glycolic acid, stearic acid, niacinamide caprylic/capric triglyceride, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, glycerin, sodium benzoate, cetyl alcohol, prunus amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil,, polysorbate 60, ammonium hydroxide, cyclopentasiloxane, bisabolol, xanthan gum, phenoxyethanol, cetearyl alcohol, ethylhexylglycerin, disodium edta.

again thanks in advance ;)
 

Happycat

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Sep 17, 2020
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Not sure how safe they are, but just wanted to give my input regarding the tranexamic acid which is used in skincare designed to lighten melasma and pigmentation- for me it did absolutely nothing.

Tranexamic acid used internally (on prescription) it does work for melasma and brown spots, but they come back after treatment is stopped.
 

SOMO

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"Tranexamic acid is used to treat heavy bleeding during the menstrual cycle (monthly periods) in women."

This makes me feel like it could constrict blood vessels which is never good for skin.
The bigger issue in that cream IMO is the BHT.

The mandelic acid cream seems the least problematic, but what skin issue are you trying to treat? Often times you're better off just using plain Salicylic Acid truthfully - I can't think of 1 skin condition that would not be improved by Salicylic Acid and it has so much research behind it. Most of these creams are not really "scams" per se, but they are just overpriced and contain small amounts of the ingredient that actually benefits the skin.

Cream with SA and toxic secondary ingredients > cream with "organic ingredients" that don't do anything
 
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southcesar

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Feb 20, 2020
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171
"Tranexamic acid is used to treat heavy bleeding during the menstrual cycle (monthly periods) in women."

This makes me feel like it could constrict blood vessels which is never good for skin.
The bigger issue in that cream IMO is the BHT.

The mandelic acid cream seems the least problematic, but what skin issue are you trying to treat? Often times you're better off just using plain Salicylic Acid truthfully - I can't think of 1 skin condition that would not be improved by Salicylic Acid and it has so much research behind it. Most of these creams are not really "scams" per se, but they are just overpriced and contain small amounts of the ingredient that actually benefits the skin.

Cream with SA and toxic secondary ingredients > cream with "organic ingredients" that don't do anything
Hi, thanks for the reply. I'm looking for some topical product to treat pimple marks and prevent wrinkles etc (the usual :p). Nowadays I use pure coconut oil on my face but it has only served me as a moisturizer and nothing else, I have some vitamin E capsules and I think it would be a good idea to mix them in the coconut oil bottle, but I don't know if the vitamin E and it can spoil from exposure to air and all that.
 
OP
S

southcesar

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Joined
Feb 20, 2020
Messages
171
Not sure how safe they are, but just wanted to give my input regarding the tranexamic acid which is used in skincare designed to lighten melasma and pigmentation- for me it did absolutely nothing.

Tranexamic acid used internally (on prescription) it does work for melasma and brown spots, but they come back after treatment is stopped.
So I'm going to stay away from Tranexamic acid, I'm going to look for some salicic acid cream that has "less worse" ingredients. Thanks for the reply!
 

SOMO

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Hi, thanks for the reply. I'm looking for some topical product to treat pimple marks and prevent wrinkles etc (the usual :p). Nowadays I use pure coconut oil on my face but it has only served me as a moisturizer and nothing else, I have some vitamin E capsules and I think it would be a good idea to mix them in the coconut oil bottle, but I don't know if the vitamin E and it can spoil from exposure to air and all that.

For old acne scars, the best things are Microdermabrasion or laser therapy, but they are costly. Microneedling/dermarolling is essentially the same as microdermabrasion but less effective and slower, so it's like trying to sweep your home with a broom vs. a vacuum.

Raw Honey (has to be raw) is also good for scars and proper skin healing. There's even honey-based products that are used in hospitals for treating scars and burns.

SA/Vitamin A/Vitamin E are all good options too, and yes the Vit E can oxidize but it should be absorbed into the skin pretty quickly after applying it.
 
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southcesar

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Joined
Feb 20, 2020
Messages
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For old acne scars, the best things are Microdermabrasion or laser therapy, but they are costly. Microneedling/dermarolling is essentially the same as microdermabrasion but less effective and slower, so it's like trying to sweep your home with a broom vs. a vacuum.

Raw Honey (has to be raw) is also good for scars and proper skin healing. There's even honey-based products that are used in hospitals for treating scars and burns.

SA/Vitamin A/Vitamin E are all good options too, and yes the Vit E can oxidize but it should be absorbed into the skin pretty quickly after applying it.
Thank you for the tips. but do you think vitamin e would oxidize if i put it in coconut oil? or should i open a capsule for each application?
 

L_C

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Aug 17, 2018
Messages
556
Thank you for the tips. but do you think vitamin e would oxidize if i put it in coconut oil? or should i open a capsule for each application?
I would like to ask for your opinion on some skin care products as I am not yet fully aware of the harmful ingredients from Ray Peat's point of view and I am trying to review a line of products that I am familiar with. Thanks in advance.

The first is a tranexamic acid cream:

> Aqua (Water), Niacinamide, Tranexamic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Glycereth-7 Triacetate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Bisabolol, Glycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Theobroma Grandiflorum (Cupuaçu) Seed Butter, Alpha-Arbutin, Phospholipids, Panthenol, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Phytic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ethylhexylglycerin, BHT, Tocopherol.


< niacinamide, cupuaçu (is a type of palm fruit, saturated fat) are peaty. Unfortunately there is sunflower oil though, what about the other ingredients? This Tranexamic Acid (Cyklokapron) is used to stop bleeding, could this have adverse effects on the skin?

The other product is an mandelic acid cream:

> Áqua, mandelic acid, alpha-arbutin, allantoin, hydroxyethylcellulose, ammonium hydroxide, sodium benzoate, propylene glycol, disodium edta.

< I couldn't find any information about mandelic acid on this forum, so I think it's important to ask about it. I found this site explaining a little about it:


“Mandelic acid is a natural brightener. It inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production to prevent pigment formation. It also helps to fade existing pigment by increasing cell turnover to disperse excess pigment from the skin’s surface.”

And the final product is a glycolic acid cream:

> aqua, glycolic acid, stearic acid, niacinamide caprylic/capric triglyceride, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, glycerin, sodium benzoate, cetyl alcohol, prunus amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil,, polysorbate 60, ammonium hydroxide, cyclopentasiloxane, bisabolol, xanthan gum, phenoxyethanol, cetearyl alcohol, ethylhexylglycerin, disodium edta.

again thanks in advance ;)

I do have some experience with peels. Personally, I would just get pure glycolic acid peel and start slow (Ie.5%) to see how your skin reacts. Then slowly increase to 10%, 15 etc.

I wouldn't use coconut oil on face. It's clogging pores.
 
Joined
Jul 11, 2020
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I wont comment on whether or not those ingredients are bad for you, but most of them you do not need for what you wanna do

For starters i would ditch the coconut oil if the reason for your pimples is related to bacteria as the coconut oil will prevent pores from oxygenating since its very comedogenic

You don't need tranexamic acid for your issue it is a tyrosinase inhibitor and works by constricting blood vessels locally where it is applied. It's used for people with things like PIH, melasma, and other pigment related issues. Alpha Arbutin works as a tyrosinase inhibitor as well but is much stronger than Tranexamic Acid. Both are these are pointless anyways as they are not a permanent fix for issues with pigmentation and the benefits will subside a week or so after using it. You'd be better off with blue light therapy to deal with pigmentation and either 0.025, 0.05% retin-A depending on the severity of the pigmentation issue

Don't know who suggested but mechanical micro dermabrasion is probably the worst thing you could do for acne scars

Stick to a weak Salicylic acid based serum like the stuff by The Ordinary. If its just pimples using anything with a lower molecular weight is likely to go into layers of the dermis you don't want it to and could create more issues if your issue is just related to the odd pimple here and there

Pimples are usually a digestion/inflammation from certain foods thing i find. Try drinking burdock root or dandelion root tea with or after meals and if it helps, try cutting down on whatever the burdock/dandelion root tea prevents from causing the inflammatory response in ya skin
 
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