Red Light Experiment (120V Vs. 130V)

Discussion in 'Red Light, Infrared, LLLT' started by haidut, Dec 5, 2013.

  1. TripleOG

    TripleOG Member

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    So 130v bulb on a 120v line reduces the color temperature, hence the increased red saturation. The heelspurs.com's black body chart shows lower color temperatures produce more heat, yet @haidut mentions the reduction of heat in his 130v bulbs compared to his 120v bulbs.

    Would the discrepancy in heat be attributed to the reduction of energy a 130v bulb uses running on 120v? This blog states roughly 15% less wattage for 130v bulbs.

    With this in mind, is it fair to say these two...

    300W, 130v, 3100k bulb
    250W, 120v, 2400k bulb

    ...would perform very similar? Actually that raises another question. Are the stats of 130v bulbs assuming it's running on 120v or 130v? That answer changes everything.

    Light therapy is one hell of a rabbit hole. :crazy:
     
  2. smith

    smith Member

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    BUMP. Thanks last guy, for waking this thread from of its coma
     
  3. smith

    smith Member

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    Per @haidut 's recommendation I got the 500watt/130v frosted satco...
    ...And some 500watt/130v CLEAR standard-shaped bulbs. SATCO S3015 500W 130V PS35 CLEAR E39 MOGEL BASE LIGHT BULB (PACK OF 2) | eBay

    For the latter I used a mogul base converter+500 watt dimmer to 1) fit and prevent explosion and 2) dim them down to 300watts for better spectrum. Do brooder lamps exist in any watt capacity above 300watts? Apparently not. Why?

    Problems: clear 500watts are way too big; they just stick out like a big sore thumb, can't put them in anything without them sticking out enough for the light to be direct (not ideal for home lighting). Secondly, when dimmed at all they emit a really annoying buzzing sound though this could just be a problem with the dimmer that I bought off amazon. They all suck based on the reviews.

    For the frosted satco, I'm still using a dimmer just to be safe. Interestingly when just plugged in the dimmer on untouched normal setting, it automatically dims SIGNIFICANTLY down, like halfway (300w?), unlike the big clear bulb that doesn't change at all in the same situation. No annoying buzz unless I dim it further. It's awesome.

    Both emit blue light from the disk-reflection method, at any dim setting. The only bulb that emits NONE is a 250w/130v red-coated heat lamp. Of course, unfortunately they filter out some of the red spectrum. CC @biggirlkisss

    GEEZ, where are the 500watt/130volt incandescent CLEAR, HEATLAMP-SHAPED bulbs? Do they exist??? I think this question was raised by @sladerunner69 a while ago. So far, only 500watt/120volt clears exist.
    A photography gel filter? Do you put it directly on the surface?
    Bump.
     
  4. biggirlkisss

    biggirlkisss Member

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    filtering out blue with amber will lose 20% of the red not worth the trade off. You could also solder a diode to the bulb cutting watt rate around half lost the youtube video. That would give 50% roughly less lumen rate but less blue. You really need a precise spectrscope to see if doing the dimming really makes that much difference.


    130 volt run on 120 volt in canada and states.
     
  5. smith

    smith Member

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    Would that be the same as using these? By the way if anyone knows where I can get these for 300WATTS or more please let me know. Its alibaba seller has been away for 20 years and the main seller is out of town, probably forever. Seems power companies hate these. TIA. Have you found a way to stop the annoying dim buzzing?

    Energy-saving-light-bulb-disc-.jpg
     
  6. TripleOG

    TripleOG Member

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    A 1000bulbs staffer confirmed in a Q&A section of theirs that the watt and kelvin ratings of 130v bulbs assumes its theoretically running off 130v. So yea, the reduced output running on 120v isn't accounted for on the product label.
     
  7. smith

    smith Member

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    What about "twilights"? Crepuscular, twilight-amber-color emitting lights, without the red filtering.. Seems like they would be great, maybe the best. The same color is partially, barely achieved by dimming high watt incandescents, but the annoying buzzing is a big problem. When is the time when sunlight is the least jarring on your eyes, with no bluelight, when you can safely gaze at a sunset without risking blindness? At sunrise and sunset; the hours of twilight.
    DSC13521.jpgearly-morning.jpg1024px-Dg5artipayallar_036.jpg

    And look at this, the color temperature of a sunset is perfect, it's exactly what you're looking for with the right incandescents. "The color temperature of daylight varies with the time of day. It tends to be around 2,000 K shortly after sunriseor before sunset, around 3,500 K during "golden hour", and around 5,500 K during midday." -wiki
    800px-PlanckianLocus.png
    Also, since higher voltage = lower temperature and better (more yellow/red) spectrum, what about 150 volt bulbs, or say, 200volt? That would completely negate the need for dimming higher wattage bulbs!!!
    CC @haidut @charlie
    @TripleOG Thanks, that's weird.
     
  8. biggirlkisss

    biggirlkisss Member

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    the issue with incandescent and halogens are high wattage per lumen. Xenon and Hps Ceramic bulbs would be better. Xenon has uv so it need to be in a halogen fixture that already has a special glass to block uva and fair amount of blue. HPS very little uv and lots of red but pricy. This is hps ceramic 600 watt. A 240 volt bulb would run at half in 120 volt canada/united states so if you got a 500 watt 240 volt you should get 50% dimmer. You could even get 1500 watt but running anything higher then 300 watts is much a higher risk of fire hazard so careful.
    [​IMG]
     
  9. TripleOG

    TripleOG Member

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    @biggirlkisss

    Maybe look into something like this with a 4300k or 3000k xenon:




    Would be a nice option if the spectral distribution of these bulbs is favorable.
     
  10. biggirlkisss

    biggirlkisss Member

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    I think I could be wrong I've seen 5000k and it was just as much blue to red. 4300k may be better. 3000k looks like way to more yellow and nothing else. They are though the real deal in terms of lumen not like led that are china ripoffs. If you get one that says 7000 lumens it is. after about 70 watt become way more pricy many of them together in a halogen fixture with glass that filters out uva would be good. Also want amber or yellow shades to block blue as it should be more then halogen or incandent. With close to 100 cri it lumen per watt is way better for our goals then led because led cri is 80-85. A cri of 97 for led will give you only twice as many lumens per watt as incandnet so xenon is really cool that way. a 50 xenon is 5000 lumens close to a 300 watt incandnet. Best way to reproduce the sun.
     
  11. smith

    smith Member

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    What do you use to plug your 500 watt's into? Do you just put them in a 300 watt brooder lamp? Or a 500 watt photography stand? @haidut

    Is there anything you do to prevent a fire hazard with high watt bulbs? like for example changing the DC power to AC with a diode in the socket (same thing as one of those bulb buttons)? @biggirlkisss

    Also HPS looks good thanks. By the way a variable transformer can dim bulbs without the annoying buzz but they're quite costly just for one outlet. Antique Radio Forums • View topic - Help, No More "The Button" Incandescent Light Bulb Savers

    I ALSO just found out that..... 240 VOLT 500 watt REFLECTOR BULBS EXIST! Dohhh, how could I have missed that. That's literally 2 times better than 130 volt bulbs. And, if some 240 volt bulbs are 500 watts, you could put them in any socket that handles half it's wattage cause of the higher voltage right??

    Another thing, something odd I've noticed is that my 120volt 250watt red reflector has a THICKER filament than my 130 volt 250 watt red reflector. Isn't it supposed to be the other way around? https://blog.1000bulbs.com/home/why-buy-130-volt-light-bulbs says so.

    Lastly, do 500watt Red-glass incandescents exist? I found clear 500/130 BR40's.
     
  12. biggirlkisss

    biggirlkisss Member

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    i would stay away from red glass incandescefnts as you block out some orange clear is best. I don't use 500 watts because fire hazard. You can get long lasting bulbs that have thicker filment then even 130 volt. There are 300 watt 10000 hour bulbs and 20000 hour bulbs. I am interested in halogen 240 volt as it would run half as bright and they are dirt cheap same with fixtures for them so cheapest setup to get insane bright list. I dunno if a 240volt 300 watt bulb incandnet would be thicker then a 10000 hour bulb but i highly doubt it. The 130volt 10000 hour 300 watt incandnet has a lumen rate of 3900 instead of 5400 because some visible light is pushed out to make room for more infared and i think if you push more red the lumen rate goes down because is not as bright as say blue. Bit of both. I will have to find some time to buy 240 volt halogen and compare to a 120 volt halogen. Stay away from dimming halogen last shorter in stead of longer.

    In terms of reducing fire hazard you can install tilt switches so if it tilt it turns off. Otherwise be careful. Even leds could be fire hazard if wattage is high enough it physics. Led bulb that is.
     
  13. smith

    smith Member

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  14. biggirlkisss

    biggirlkisss Member

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    the filter that comes with it says it filters out but didnt say it filter uva I would assume it does. A option is buying a uv reader from ebay that precise and see. I read it said that with the filter it less uv then the incandnet. The thing is though glass like that filters less with time.

    To answer your question no 20000 hour. There are 300 watt that are 10000 hours

    300 watt 20000 hour incandescent | eBay
     
  15. Zpol

    Zpol Member

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    @haidut ; do you still use the 130V 250W infrared bulbs at your office? Or have you found something better? Also, if you have a link to the specific bulbs, perhaps you could share with us ;)?
     
  16. smith

    smith Member

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    BULB
     
  17. Zpol

    Zpol Member

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  18. sladerunner69

    sladerunner69 Member

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    How are standard 120v infareds in comparison tot he 130v? I am slightly worried to the damage to the retinas that Peat himself describes as an inherent effect of bright light which can only be mitigated through low pufa consumption. does the damage still occur to any unfavorable amount?
     
  19. biggirlkisss

    biggirlkisss Member

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    130volt will have more orange to deep red less blue.
     
  20. OP
    haidut

    haidut Member

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    I have a few lamps with porcelain sockets certified for up to 600W bulbs. They get quite heated with the 500W bulbs but seem to work just fine.
     
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