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Peat Safe Cookware?

  1. I was bummed out to find that the stainless steel cookware I've been using (thinking it was pretty safe) is actually really bad; turns out that--according to Dr. Peat--there is magnetic stainless steel and then there is non-magnetic stainless steel. The non-magnetic is bad--worse than aluminum or iron.

    From "Irons Dangers" by Peat
    http://raypeat.com/articles/articles/iron-dangers.shtml

    "There are two main types of stainless steel, magnetic and nonmagnetic. The nonmagnetic form has a very high nickel content, and nickel is allergenic and carcinogenic. It is much more toxic than iron or aluminum. You can use a little "refrigerator magnet" to test your pans. The magnet will stick firmly to the safer type of pan."

    Anybody have suggestions for brands of Magnetic (safe) stainless steel cookware?
    Or other kinds of safe cookware?
     
  2. these are the set i have and that were recommended as peat friendly and this was the cheapest place I could find them online.

    Farberware Millennium Tulip Shaped 10-Piece Set, Stainless
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042H ... B0042H8SJM

    the kitchen magnet sticks to them inside and out i just tested it again. the quality is really good and i am extremely happy that i bought them.
     
  3. Try to get your hands on an old Corning Vision Ware set... I was lucky enough to find 2 used sets a few years back on Craigslist. They can be expensive, as they've turned into somewhat of a "retro collection" thing in some circles but, keep your eyes peeled and you'll surely find one :)
     
  4. Just googled those Corning Ware and now I totally remember seeing those before. That would be awesome to cook on pyrex if you could. Heck yeh! Nothing will be leaching from that set! Good call Eric. I checked craigslist in my area but didn't see any listed. I might keep checking.
     
  5. Just so I'm understanding:
    can you cook over a gas burner with that stuff?
     
  6. I use a Green Pan. No idea how safe it is though, gotta be better than most.
     
  7. I was checking out those green pans because I need something to cook my eggs in. Have you cooked eggs in it? The stainless steel pans are kinda a pain in the butt for eggs. But for everything else they rock.
     
  8. For sure!!!! But, don't just get the "Corning" stuff... You need to get Corning's Vision ware, which can sustain the high direct heat of stovetops. Otherwise, normal Corningware, which is just Pyrex, is only for the oven, and I can't vouch for how good that stuff would be for the direct high heat of stove tops...
     
  9. The Mercola set is very safe but very expensive. Yes I know Dr M also is full of disinfo but it isnt all such.
    RP says unchipped Teflon is safe though Id rather steer clear of that, but thats just me.
    I have an orgreenic, pretty much the greenpan. I find it not too bad for eggs as long as plenty of coconut oil in their.
     
  10. Just used my farberware for the first time, loving it.
     
  11. Awesome Nick! I really love my set. If you need any instructions on how to cook on them and how to limit the things from sticking let me know and I will find the sites that I got some good info from. There is actually a science to cooking on these things, love it!
     
  12. I got a few of the Vision Ware things. Love them.
    Got a giant pot for making bone broth.
    And a small skillet and a couple of smaller pots.
    They look cool and you can really use them like on a gas burner
    with no explosions!
    Thanks for the tip!
     
  13. Well I cooked a lamb chop on high last night and it burnt all the outsides which made it even tastier :p

    But yea it sticks a bit so far.
     
  14. Yeh it does make some tasty crusts! I will look for those links in the next day or two. Little short for time right now.
     
  15. Ok, found one of the really great links which gets down to the science of it. Make sure you watch the video. I do the water thing all the time now, makes for a great conversation piece. And it truly works. Also, when cooking eggs(eggs seem to be the hardest thing to make not stick), make sure the eggs are at room temp, also, heat your pan up like the link tells you, then put your oil in, then put your room temp egg in. It takes some getting use to, but once you figure it out its so worth it.


    http://www.houseboateats.com/2009/12/on ... r-pan.html
     
  16. Another alternative: Target has some Peat-friendly (i.e. magnetic) stainless steel cookware. (I'm not saying that all of their stainless steel cookware is magnetic, so bring your magnet when you shop.)
     
  17. what about the notion that crock pots have lead in them, is there any truth to this?
     
  18. My list of Peat Safe Cookware

    I personally tested these with a magnet. They are magnetic from top to bottom. The following meet Ray Peat's rec's for stainless magnetic cookware:

    All Clad
    Sur La Table brand - excellent and just as good as All Clad but about 1/3 the price or less.
    Calphalon Try Ply and Accucore models - also excellent but Sur La Table is better for the price
    DeMeyer - overly expensive but top of the line if money isn't an object
    Ikea "Favorit" (top of the Ikea line) and another of their mid-range brands whose name I forgot. By the way, the Favorit brand is very, very nice for low cost cookware. It isn't the cheaper stainless with the disc base attached, but rather has the aluminum core seamlessly encapsulated.

    There are lots of companies selling cast iron enamel similar to Le Crueset but about 1/4 to 1/3 the price. This is something Peat would approve of as well. Examples of lower cost brands are Tramontina, Ikea and Lodge (all have 5 quart Dutch ovens in the $40-$60 range.) I have decided to go with the Sur La Table cookware plus a round enameled Dutch Oven and uber-large enameled covered saute/frying pan.

    I bought the oven to use as a soup pot because, for the most part, soup's the only thing I really use acidic (tomato) foods in any longer. For bakeware, I've gone with ceramic, keeping a few stainless pieces I already had.

    The following are either NOT magnetic at all, or are just partially magnetic - as required for induction cooktops (magnetic on the bottom exterior but not up the sides or interior):
    Emeril Ware (for All Clad)
    Tramontina - I wrote asking whether the news models would be magnetic/nickel free, because I'd read on Walmart site that "some were magnetic" for induction cooktop purposes. The company replied that they do not have, nor do they intend to make, nickel-free cookware. Keep in mind that Tramontina has been noted as being just as good as All Clad in a couple of chef/cooking related articles but it is NOT magnetic like All Clad.
    Kirkland Signature
    Dacor
    Cuisinart

    Checked all other stainless sets with a magnet at Walmart, Ikea, Sur La Table, and Macy's. The ones that were magnetic are listed above, but I didn't write down the names of all the brands that failed the test. I think T-Fal was also on the list of fails. Generally, the cheaper stuff isn't going to be magnetic, except for the Ikea line, which I highly recommend to anyone with serious budget constraints.

    Hope this helps someone.
     
  19. Benni, welcome to the forum!

    Thats a great list, thank you!

    I need something to fry eggs in. What do you guys and gals think of these "green pans"?

    http://www.walgreens.com/store/c/orgree ... __&adtype={adtype}&Kpid=prod6090562&sst=410fedeb-ea4f-3409-52ab-00004140332c&SL_ClientGroup=1
     
  20. I'm still looking into it. Hoping that an enameled cast iron skillet will do the trick but for now I am using my stainless set from Sur La Table, and it's working just fine. Just remember to cook on low-medium heat, not medium or high like we all got used to doing with aluminum/teflon, and to oil the pan when you put it on the burner - not when it's cold, but just as it's warming up.
    If you wait to oil it after the pan is hot, you'll have trouble with sticking.
    Also, you want to pre-heat the pan well on that low and medium heat.
    To prevent stainless from getting scratches, which also causes sticking, try to use only non metallic utensils.
     
  21. I will give that technique a shot tomorrow then. I have been using the one described in the video I posted earlier in this thread. Basically high heat.
     
  22. Greenpans

    Oh, I did see the Greenpans, and I also researched them online. My impression is that people aren't liking them too much.
    They looked really cheap and were on clearance at Walmart. Don't look as though they would work better than an enameled cast iron pan (also sold at Walmart -- Tramontina and Lodge brands). However, I might buy one if I ever need something for a particular purpose that I would consider disposable - like maybe something to take to a cabin or while traveling on vacation.
     
  23. Yeh I have seen them at Walmart, and they are at CVS on sale right now for $20.
     
  24. Very similar to the orgreenic pan I have. As long as plenty of coconut oil it works well for eggs. In fact if I put even more coconut oil in I have been able to successfully make pancakes (masa, eggs, milk and milk powder) without too much sticking.
     
  25. I am thinking of giving it a shot. Just wondering how safe they are.
     
  26. The ceramic is lead-free melted glass so I think pretty safe.
     
  27. Cool, thanks! :ugeek:
     
  28. I have some ceramic pots and pans, too and they were really expensive but the sticking is awful even with coconut oil. Since they are white you can still see some brown spots even after lots of scrubbing. I don't really use them anymore. Are yours a special kind?
     
  29. I went to a SaladMaster presentation where they were claiming their steel (316ti) was completely non-porous and that all other stainless steel would leach metals. One of the parts of the demonstration is that they boil a cup of water with a tablespoon of baking soda in their pans then try the same thing in other pans (stainless, cast-iron, corning) . The baking soda water boiled in their pans tastes like baking soda water while the baking soda water in the other pans tastes nasty and battery-like.

    Anyway their pans were $4,000 for a 10 pc set, so not exactly cheap. I've been doing some research and it seems stainless steal pans will leach some amount of metals.. Have you guys tried this test with your pans? It would be interesting to get a survey to see which brands may be more prone to leaching metals.
     

  30. Thanks Charlie! I think I will buy these, but when searching online I found conflicting info, some said they were 18/0 (0% nickel) stainless steel and others that it was 18/10 (10% nickel). Do you remember if the box specified which they were? Or if it's marked on the pans?
     
  31. No I do not remember if I checked the box or not, and the box is gone now I think, but I will check around for it. I did check with the magnent and it passed the test like it was supposed to. I also just looked for markings on the pans and it does not have it either.
     
  32. Ok thanks! Overstock and bed band and beyond say 18/0 so they're probably right. I've also read reviews that they corrode easily which would suggest they are nickel-free.
     
  33. No corrosion here yet, but I do try to take decent care of them by not leaving them wet for long.
     
  34. 1) I like to make a large amount of coffee and store it in a bottle for the day. What bottle container would you use? It seems like nickel could leach from stainless steel, although maybe less from coffee http://www.debralynndadd.com/BlogRe...earchID=3356681&ObjectID=471530&ObjectType=55. I could use 18/0 stainless steel (no nickel), but iron leaches. I'm being careful because this is for storing a hot acidic liquid for hours, every day. Is the only option a glass bottle?

    2) I replaced my aluminum stovetop coffee maker (mentioned as leaking high amounts of aluminum in RP's article on Iron) by the same version in stainless steel. It only seems to come in 18/10 stainless steel, so made with nickel. Should I avoid all stovetop coffee makers?

    I could buy a larger electric coffee machine, but that's more sophisticated (loads of plastics) and I don't see why I wouldn't encounter the same problems.

    This seems to leave coffee drip as the only safe way of making coffee...
     
  35. Hi, jyb!

    You could use a good old glass lined vacuum pump pot to keep your coffee warm all day. Here's one: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Thermos-Button- ... d_sim_kh_2

    Really good options for really good coffee sans metal or bpa contamination are the french press or the Aerobie aeropress. With the french press, you have minimal contact with metal. The aerobie aeropress is made of bpa free plastiic.
    http://www.amazon.co.uk/Aerobie-AeroPre ... 498&sr=1-1
    http://aerobie.com/Products/Details/Aer ... iption.htm
     
  36. @Rachel: thanks, that's useful. For French press I assume that a few minutes of hot coffee contact (boiling, not steaming) with the stainless steel won't be enough to leach nickel.

    For the thermos with glass liner, I'm guessing the main container inside is glass but what about the lid and pump system with which steam or coffee is in contact when it is poured out? Might be ok if that part is BPA-free plastic.

    (How do you know that BPA-free plastic doesn't leach? There are loads of leaching plastics, BPA being just one of them, and I often read their replacement may not always leach less.)
     
  37. @jyb
    When using a French press, the temperature of the water should be 90.5-96.1 degrees C (195-205 degrees F). You get it boiling and then let it cool off for about 30 seconds before you put it into the French press. Additionally, there should only be a few seconds of contact with the stainless steel, when you press it and pour it. So, the French press is probably the best bet.

    Thermos brand claims to be bpa free. http://www.thermos.com/product_catalog. ... tCode=PUMP
    Arrrggh. We don't. :roll:
     
  38. Need to find out the metal content on it, you are looking for 18/0.
     
  39. Nick, if you scroll down to the Product Description you'll find your answer. It's 18/10.
     
  40. Not really cookware related but what about plastic bottles and aluminum cans? Its easier to find coke in a can than glass bottles.
     
  41. yes! thoughts on this would be much appreciated...i can't stand the eggs sticking!
     
  42. Depends on the glazing.
     
  43. I have been using a teflon frying pan, which now seems to have some noticeable dents in it, and a non magnetic stainless steel pot, so I am thinking of buying the Farberware set. What are the best methods to take care of this set? How long is it safe to keep them submerged in sink water? Is it true you should never use anything above low - medium heat with these? How long do you need to warm the pans before adding oil? Is it necessary to warm the pots before boiling water to make broth in them? And do you need to add oil to the pots that you are boiling water for broth in? And I read that if they get big scratches the sticking increases. So what would be the best kind of utensils to use with them to avoid scratching? Wooden utensils? I know Peat recommended glass utensils in his iron article, but I can't find any glass cooking utensils on Amazon. I've also checked out the Corning Vision Ware set recommended by ericrlepine but I've read there's a possibility of them shattering/exploding so I'm a bit afraid to buy those.
     
  44. I use amber ware (visionware?) and pyrex glass ware picked up at flea markets/thrift stores. The thick glass acts just like cast iron. The pyrex is thinner and works well for quick heating chocolate milk. ;) I am not worried about spontaneous explosion of the used glass. I think the stuff with issues has already broken. ;)
     
  45. Copper question. I have an old copper kettle. Does anyone know how I would test it to find out if it is pure copper? And if I can find out, would this be a good thing to use as my kettle?

    Also, is the white Corning ware any good? I mean in terms of leaching/not leaching anything?
     
  46. I don't know, but it can be a lot harder to clean than the glass.
     
  47. According to some people on this Amazon topic http://www.amazon.com/forum/cooking/ref ... CBKW8EWL0A pyroceram is what the old Corning Ware was made from and it is safer than Pyrex and Visions. I'm thinking of getting these Corning Ware pyroceram cornflower casseroles from http://www.shopworldkitchen.com/corningware/stovetop or some vintage versions on eBay along with a 10 inch Corning Ware pyroceram cornflower casserole for frying. Also considering lead-free clay and copper cookware. Any advantages to those over glass?
     
  48. I had all my mothers old stuff. It distributes heat poorly on the stove top, sticks and scratches easily. Cooking is a joy for me, cleaning is not. If I can't clean the tool in a reasonable amount of time, it is a useless tool, for me.
     
  49. I found someone here http://curezone.com/forums/am.asp?i=1042202 and here http://www.amazon.com/review/RXTOYRNU4QJ3O and here https://www.facebook.com/HealthRanger/p ... 4174433891 saying that Dr. Hal Huggins tested Vision Ware and found heavy metals leach from it and also says colored glass contains bismuth and that clear glass is safer. According to this http://www.mothering.com/community/t/32 ... s-and-pans Vision Ware also contain synthetic polymers. It seems the Salad Masters 316 Ti mentioned by Yves earlier in this thread may be the safest type of cookware with no risk of exploding glass or anything leaching into food.
     
  50. :eek 23 piece used Salad Masters T-304 set on ebay for $999 - a lid cover for $30. Couldn't even find a price for a set of the 316 Ti but a single wok fetches $425 on ebay. ;) Well beyond my means!

    Or you can host a "party" and invite a distributor to come sell their wares. You can't order direct from the company nor does it reveal their prices as they use distributors and the party method to distribute their products. This won't do for me. I dislike intently this type of distribution no matter how good a product is. I just can't bring myself to cajole my friends and family to a "tupperware" party. :roll:
     
  51. I'm thinking of just getting the Farberware Millenium set after the possible problems I've discovered with Visions / Corning Ware. It will certainly be much safer than the chipped teflons and non-magnetic stainless steels I have now. For some reason the price of the set keeps dropping and is now only $79.90 on Amazon, which seems like a very low price for this set. It was $80.00 something yesterday and over $100 not too long ago. http://www.amazon.com/Farberware-Millen ... roduct_top
     
  52. This looks like a really good deal David - may just get this for myself! Can't beat the price!
     
  53. But is it magnetic?
     
  54. I think it is kiran. It can be used on induction stoves.

    I'm ordering it right now. Only 10 left in stock.
     
  55. Yes, it is 18/0 steel. This set kicks butt, I own it and am SOOOOOO glad I bought it.

    Its at a great deal right now, $80!! It was running over $100 just recently. This is the lowest I have seen it.

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042H ... =rapefo-20
     
  56. Thanks for the info Charlie. I'm excited about this purchase!
    BTW, everyone, there is only 7 left in stock but more are apparently on the way.

    I ordered last night after telling DH I was buying my birthday present and all he had to do is wrap it. ;)
     
  57. I had a very dubious coffee making set up. For the last couple weeks I've been using an eight cup Chemex carafe and a glass kettle from BBB. Chemex makes filter papers but I used regular #4 filters I already had. Overall I'd rate it a C+/B-, it works but it's slow and messy.

    Better, for the last few days, was using Ferrara instant espresso. I think it tastes great and heating one cup of water is a lot quicker, and I found it locally for US$4.59. That is now my default set up, no leaching of anything.

    Chemex also makes a glass kettle that looks good.
     
  58. I use a regular steel kettle, pour it into a cup of grounded coffee. I then filter the coffee into another cup with a cheese/butter cloth, the same I use for orange juice. The cloth is much better than paper filters. Doesn't take too long to rinse after use.

    The only possible leeching of unwanted substance occurs in the kettle. But I only heat the amount of water needed and pour as soon as heated, so I hope its not too bad.
     
  59. Cool, jyb. I sort of knew there were some issues with paper filters but never thought of using cheese cloth. I tried it with the chemex carafe and it worked great. Thanks!
     
  60. Is the Farberware skillet adequate for scrambled eggs? The set looks nice and I'm close to pulling the trigger on it, but a good pan for cooking up eggs is a must for me.
     
  61. Hello, I have a question on the Faberware Millenium series. I've noticed that many stainless steel sets have 18/0 bottoms but not 18/0 sides and innards. For example, the magnet might stick strongly to the bottom of the pan but not to the insides, where the food actually contacts the metal. For those who own the set, could you let me know whether a magnet sticks strongly to all surfaces? I'd like to make sure they're legit 18/0 throughout before I pull the trigger. Sadly, this information has been near impossible to find online on my own.

    Thanks!
     
  62. Yes, the magnet sticks strongly on all surfaces.
     
  63. But, but...the magnet would still stick on the inside bottom even if it was 18/10 as long as the outside is 18/0. Depending on how thick the layers were it might stick pretty well. A definitive test would be to put something like 10 pieces of paper, or a matchbook cover or the like, over each bottom surface and see if it stuck with the same strength. Then try 20 sheets, then 30, until the magnetic force lessens. If it lessens equally there can be no question that inside and outside are both 18/0.

    Anybody game?
     
  64. I've seen some cute glass pans. Glass cookware is awesome. You cook your eggs for several hours, and I'm guessing the ashes still wouldn't be contaminated with cookware iron or nickel or other stuff. Then you could clean it with whatever method without any risk of scratching, but you wouldn't need to scratch hard because glass is easier to clean.
     
  65. Glass works well for eggs and much easier to clean egg out of a glass skillet than stainless steel.
     
  66. It's been established that a lot of the food packaging or bottle lining leach chemicals that display estrogenic activity. What do you think of the following typical packages:

    Milk: HPDE - http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3222987/, it find that for some of the liquids tested, even some of the "unstressed" HPDE leach estrogenic chemicals

    Orange juice in plastic bottles: PET. OJ is acid, maybe this promotes more leaching than usual. But I think the longer it waits on the shelve, the more it leaks, so maybe the "freshly squeezed" brands should be favored. On the other hand, the concentrate brands might sit on the shelve longer, but there's less vitamin C and maybe the concentrate juice promotes less leaching.

    Orance juice in carton / Tetra Paks: apparently the inside lining of these Paks is PET + aluminium foil (doesn't sound good).
     
  67. Poisoned at every turn. :(
     
  68. Not necessarily, need to find out. For example, for OJ, is these packaging worth it or are they so bad that it is much preferable to do fresh OJ? And for milk for example, is it so bad that one should only buy very large bottles (less surface per volume so less leached per cup) and zero fat (more fat can mean more leaching)? It's open to debate.
     
  69. I wonder if thats why people are having estrogen problems with milk.
     
  70. Anyone know about the safety of steel based coffee makers (the percolators type that you put over the stove)? Most of them are steel with nickel (not 18/0), ie non-magnetic. RP has written about how the nickel cookware is toxic, but at the same this allows one to make good coffee (more caffeine and magnesium than drip coffee), so I wonder if its worth it.

    I've found one which seems to be 18/0 for the lower part (the one exposed to the flame) and I believe 18/10 upper part.
     
  71. I use a Silit frying pan. It was expensive, but it's extremely well made and is absolutely beautiful. It's non-stick, very easy to clean, and very durable.

    Enameled cast iron seems to be another good option.
     
  72. I found another SS cookware set that I'm pretty confident about. It's a store brand at Kohl's and I could check it out at for myself in the store, link. Magnetic force is the same (as far as I could tell) inside and out and seems to stay the same with spacers under the magnet. Even the gizmos and lid trims are magnetic. Two answers by Kohl staff say there is no nickel in the set.

    Also, they have an 8 piece set on sale for $40. They look the same but not in stock in the store I was at.

    Going a little overboard prolly but here's an 18/00 SS colander. If you happen to need a colander...
     
  73. On the coffee front, here's a glass dripper. Thoroughly explained on the site.
     
  74. Overstock.com states that this "Cook N Home" set is 18/0 SS and the price is not too shabby:
    http://www.overstock.com/Home-Garden/Co ... oduct.html

    I may order that one, but I might as well ask if it's OK: would anyone with the Farberware Millennium set be willing to sell me the smallest (1 quart) covered saucepan if perhaps you aren't using it? I will be traveling extensively this summer in my van and I only really use cookware these days for heating small amounts of liquids, frying liver and meat and steaming oysters. I can do all of that in one pot; buying an entire cookware set is kind of overkill for my needs and takes up a lot of space.
     
  75. I searched the whole internet to find the answer to this, as surprisingly, nobody here gives the full answer. Finally I found it, so I thought I'd come back here and post my findings.

    First of all, Peat's information to buy stainless steel that sticks with a magnet is nothing but provacative and is frustratingly uninformative. 18/10 (300 series) and 18/0 (400 series) cookware both stick to magnets (they're made that way to work on induction cooktops), however the 400 series sticks much stronger because of the lack of nickel. Because of Peat's concern for nickel, you'd assume he means to get the 400 series, which has 0% nickel, instead of the 300 series, which is 10% nickel. However, after significant research, I'd get the 300 over the 400.

    Here's what you need to know:
    Probably the safest cookware isn't Stainless Steel- it's enameled cast iron. Enameled Cast Iron is perfectly safe as long as the interior of the dish is white - the lack of color very likely indicating a lack of lead in the enamal (colored enamels more often have lead). Le Creuset makes a model but it's super expensive. The Lodge makes one that's nearly as good at 1/6 the price. http://www.amazon.com/Lodge-EC6D43-Enam ... ql_qh_dp_t

    Second best option is Stainless Steel. Obviously you can't buy the cheapo 200 series, which releases a bunch of metal. So you're left choosing between the 300 (18/10) and 400 (18/0) series. The 400 series can have as low as >1% Nickel, which sounds like a great option. But here's the problem... it's much more corrosive than the 300 series, and although there's no nickel to leach in the 400 series, it has higher total release rates of metal than the 300 series, with the vast majority of the release being iron. (This info can be found in page 30 of the study provided in the forthcoming link.) Lastly, it's very hard to find pans that are 18/0 on the exterior and interior. Typically they'll be 18/0 on the exterior (for induction) and 18/10 on the interior. The only one I found that MIGHT be 18/0 on the inside and out is the Farberware Millenium Set, but honestly I don't care. A good quality 300 series (like All-Clad) is a better option. Once the sets are scratched, pitted, corroded and damaged, the release rates of metals is much higher. A quality 300 series set could last multiple lifetimes with little wear. The 400 series isn't likely to last 10 years without damage.

    The remainder of my response is lifted from the comments section of gnowfglins.com's article on The Scoop on Stainless Steel Cookware, written by user Holly Gates. It sums it all up nicely:

    300 series stainless is generally speaking more corrosion resistant than 400 series, meaning that less of the metal would get into your food).

    Here is a very pertinent survey conducted by the government of Finland in 2010:

    http://www.ttl.fi/en/publications/elect ... _steel.pdf

    The study, titled “Review on Toxicity of Stainless Steel” is 87 pages long, with several dense pages of references at the end. For each potential area of concern with stainless affecting human health in every situations, the findings of numerous scientific studies are assessed and evaluated in light of EU guidelines for toxic material exposure. Whether or not you put any stock in the EU guidelines, the amounts and types of material which are found to transfer from stainless to food are interesting to think about.

    As pointed out by others here, the main constituents of the stainless steels used in foodware are (300 and 400 series) are iron, nickel, and chromium. The materials of potential concern would be the nickel and chromium. In these alloys, the availability of nickel is found to be less than 0.1% of what it would be from a similar proportion of bulk nickel metal. The exception is alloy variants with sulfur added, typically to enhance machinability. These are not used for foodware. Even people hypersensitive to nickel (i.e. skin allergy) experience no reaction from intimate and lengthy contact with 304 or 316 stainless.

    The availability of chromium however is approximately equal to what would be predicted given its proportion of the alloy. The question is how much chromium is coming off the metal during typical food preparation and storage activities.

    The Finnish report finds that for medium to high pH range, even at cooking temperatures and with prolonged storage, essentially nothing transfers from the stainless to the food. Low pH materials result in some transfer.

    One study cited in the report looked at storage of pickled lemon in stainless, which is lower pH than almost anything else you would think of using in the kitchen (pH 2.1). Kombucha is 3-4, pure white vinegar is 2.4. Other studies looked at prolonged boiling of low-ish ph foods in stainless. What was generally the result was that while some chromium and nickel transferred to the food, the actual amount was something like 10 times less than typical intake of these metals from the food itself (25ug/kg food is typical).

    Exceptions are with the first few uses of new pots, and with some types of welds.

    Many surgical implants and medical devices are made from 316L. This is because it is among the least reactive materials with biological systems that can be produced and worked at a reasonable cost.

    To me, knowing that my food itself contains 10x the amount of what is coming off my pot makes me feel quite comfortable with the safety of my 304 stainless.

    ------

    I hope this lays this issue to bed once and for all. For those of you wondering, here's the set I wound up purchasing: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00421 ... UTF8&psc=1
     
  76. Awesome post, thanks for sharing the results of your research. I, too, went on an exhaustive Google quest a few months ago in search of more concrete details to corroborate Peat's rather vague musings on magnets and cookware and came up mostly empty-handed. In the end I decided to go with a couple of discounted barely-used Farberware 18/10 pots and pans found on eBay, and they have performed quite well. Funnily enough, my PUFA and iron avoidance efforts were thwarted pretty heavily recently while spending two weeks visiting and working at a friend's farm where most of the meals were prepared communally on cast-iron cookware in sunflower or canola oil. Was kind of a bummer at first, but the more I thought about it, the more I relaxed and realized that friends and compromise won hands down over isolation and purity. :)
     
  77. I prefer Corning Visions or whatever it's called; glass cookware made by Corning back in the 1990's and earlier. It's not on the market anymore because too many peeps were doing crazy stuff with it like taking it out of the freezer then microwaving it. Caused some of them to blow up due to thermal shock. Use them normal and with some common sense though and they're awesome! I got a 10" skillet with lid and like a 2 or 3 quart pot with lid. That's all I need.

    I'm making some Hamburber Hash in them as I speak... :D
     
  78. Thanks for your research.
    Concerning The Lodge, i've read some of the negative comments on Amazon, and it seems there's a reason it's sold at such low price...
     
  79. I read that study quite awhile ago, it was more on point than anything I had found. I'm not gonna second guess RP based on that post, though. Ignoring the several illogical statements in it, the abstract from this study shows that nickel is leached from stainless steel.

    And even if food does contain some nickel, ingesting more of it doesn't make a lick of sense to me.

    Chromium is a trace element that we need, it is important in glucose/insulin metabolism. I have no idea if chromium from cookware is usable biologically.

    My 18/00 pot that I boil water in every day is showing some rust. I found one reference that says it is the ferric form, not ferrous, and unavailable to the body. I have to do more research on it.
     
  80. This glass cookware marcar has recommended is the cat's pajamas. It's true what they say, once you go glass, you'll never go back.
     
  81. How about ceramic and porcelain pans?
     
  82. Just don't use the stove and this isn't much of a problem. Ceramics or pyrex in the microwave and in the oven. Problem solved.

    I never cook anything on the stove top. Eggs cook fine in the microwave. I put two in a bowl, scramble them a bit and add a piece of cheese, and micrwave on 3 for six minutes. They come out fine. No pan cleanup, either, just toss the bowl in the dishwasher.
     
  83. Great insight. Thank you for sharing.

    HOMI CHEF has nickel-free 18/0 stainless steel cookware, and they have the best prices.
     
  84. i read here in the forum but having a hard time finding the post about luminarc that is made from france is much better because of the different material use than other luminarc sold in the other countries?

    how do you know if its made from france?
     
  85. Would be nice if there were nickel-free WOKS or just safe large, deep and smoothly-curved pans that existed, rather than these shallow skillets and weird 90 degree-angle edge pans. Really difficult to stir-fry 2 cups of rice and veggies in a steep 8-inch pan that's 2 inches high or a skillet with no curve, but it's not impossible i guess
     
  86. It's back on the market, though there is some suspicion that the USA versions have tested positive for lead, while the French (and obviously original) versions are lead-free.
    not sure if advertisement
     
  87. I used to use Corning Visions until one day cooking something the pot exploded like a bomb. Good thing I was not hit by the glass. When I looked into the problem it turned out this had happened to other owners of Visions. I am once bitten twice shy now to use it again, but before that I really liked the pots. Maybe someday I will try them again, but I want to look into that issue first.
    Another thing I own and like is the VitaClay cooker, which is an automatic cooker that uses a natural clay pot, so no chemicals to be leached.
     
  88. Doesn't clay get its red color from iron? That can't be good. Were you doing anything funny to your visions cookware or did it just explode for no reason
     
  89. On the Visions, no, I was just cooking as usual and bam, it was like a bomb went off. That was years before the internet, but since that time I had read that other people were experiencing that problem. I really like the Visions and was disappointed, maybe the problem has been corrected, I should look into it. From the information I had read, the clay is inert and doesn't leach anything into the food, but I don't have extensive knowledge about that, and maybe I should dig a bit deeper into that question. I would assume that the VitaClay, if it did have iron, it would have much less than cast iron cookware.
     
  90. how about just plain cast iron?